Identity and Adornment: The South Asian Jewelry Series

Kaira Bhutada/MiC

Find our full project on the South Asian Jewelry Series website, developed by Matthew Prock, Shant Manoukian, and Albon Wu, which we highly recommend you explore.

Jewelry is never just jewelry. 

It sings against brown skin, alive with the echoes of those who came before us. When banks closed their doors, it became our currency. When rights wavered, it transformed into our armor. When words failed, it spoke of our history. In South Asian cultures, jewelry serves as a unique mode of cultural transference and connects generations — grandmothers to mothers to daughters. For younger individuals of the South Asian diaspora, whose paths often diverge from those of their ancestors, jewelry is the one thing we share. It carries inheritance and intention, a silent language forged in gold and silver, spoken across time. 

For South Asian Americans, jewelry represents both a bridge to heritage and a point of contradiction. Many grew up navigating the complex relationship between their family’s treasured ornaments and Western ideals of minimalism. What was once deemed excessive — too bright, too intricate, too obviously other — is now being reclaimed as an essential expression of identity. What we were once told to tuck away now blazes our path forward.

Dr. Usha Balakrishnan, historian and Chief Curator of the World Diamond Museum, describes South Asian jewelry as something that maintains “the mind and body in equilibrium,” a balance achieved through materials, design and intention. This reflects a deeper philosophy where adornment is tied to both beauty and wellness. Pieces are often designed with symbolic placement and physical benefit in mind, their forms shaped by centuries of shifting dynasties, trade routes and cultural movements. But this harmony isn’t just aesthetic — it has always been a means of survival. For centuries, South Asian women have relied on their jewelry as their only secure financial asset. Legal systems denied them land, wealth and inheritance, leaving gold and silver as their silent defiance — the one possession that others could not repossess. Even today, jewelry is not merely gifted; it is safeguarded, meant to be liquidated in times of need.

But these pieces are more than resistance. They are ritual. The clinking of bangles against your wrist in a crowded home, the tying of a thali around your neck during your wedding, the weight of your anklets as you dance. Each piece marks life’s moments and evolves with you — the gold bracelet you received as a newborn, the jhumkas you bought at a bustling market and the old jewelry boxes you scavenged through in your mother’s drawers. This is memory, solidified in metal, warm against our skin.

This sentiment extends beyond personal collections to the work of contemporary designers. Visionaries like Suhani Parekh of MISHO and Simran Anand of BySimran are reimagining traditional forms for contemporary wear, creating pieces that honor cultural techniques while speaking to modern aesthetics. The artistic value of these pieces transcends adornment as wearable art that carries our culture forward. Meanwhile, there’s been a growing confidence in pairing traditional family pieces with contemporary fashion, creating visual dialogues between past and present, between heritage and individual expression.

This project celebrates that transformation at the intersection of history, identity and self-expression. Through our lens, we explore how our models, all South Asian women, have used jewelry as both sanctuary and statement. How something as small as a ring or as intricate as a gold necklace can hold generations of struggle and joy. How we —through preservation and reinvention — are learning to wear them again, this time on our own terms.

Each model featured in this series highlights not just the gleam of their jewelry pieces but the stories, struggles and celebrations they’ve witnessed through time. As scholar Chinmayee Satpathy writes, “Jewelry constitutes an integral part of intangible cultural heritage, reflecting living traditions through cultural self-image and aesthetic sensibility.” Through these adornments, we can connect to histories that are both personal and collective.

Jewelry is reclamation, legacy and resistance. It is what we carry forward from those who fought before us and what we will leave for those who follow. It is, and always has been, ours to embody.

Welcome to the South Asian Jewelry Series. 

Arya Kamat

Anjalee Raval/MiC & Adithya Sastry/MiC

Adornment: The Models & Their Jewelry

Interviews by Arya Kamat
Photos by Kaira Bhutada

Nawal Ahmed (she/her) Junior – Psychology – Warren, MI – Bengali

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Nawal shares that her earliest memories of wearing jewelry go back to when she was an infant. “I started wearing jewelry before I could have memories,” Ahmed said. “I got my ears pierced when I was really little, and my mom would always dress me up in little necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. I would often break them because I was a baby, but that never stopped her from replacing them and continuing to dress me up. I was like her little doll because I was her only daughter (I have two older brothers!)”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Ahmed’s collection includes a mix of everyday pieces and special cultural items. “I have three piercings on each of my ears with Bengali gold pieces on all of them,” Ahmed said. “I keep them on all the time, whether I’m showering or sleeping. It’s the same with my necklaces, nose piercings and anklets. I also brought in Bengali jewelry that I wear to weddings or other cultural events. Everything is usually my mom’s taste, which has also influenced my own.”

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Throughout her life, Ahmed has gravitated toward dainty jewelry, which felt more in line with her style at certain times. “When I was developing my style, I initially preferred dainty jewelry — growing up in America, you see what is popular and believe that’s what’s beautiful, the standard,” Ahmed said. “So I was never into big Desi jewelry, which I didn’t have much of to begin with since I had smaller chains.” However, attending cultural events and seeing others wear more traditional jewelry made her rethink her style. “I’d go to weddings and events and see family and friends wear bigger tiklis or jhumkas. And I thought to myself, ‘They’re so pretty!’ Ever since then, starting around high school, I’ve been buying and wearing more cultural jewelry.”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

When it comes to acquiring jewelry, Ahmed looks both locally and online. “A few of the pieces I have on are from going out anywhere and seeing a piece for sale that I find cute,” Ahmed said. “For Desi jewelry, there are a lot of Bengali places that have opened in Warren, Detroit, and other parts of southeast Michigan. I’ll visit them for a lot of jewelry, especially gold pieces. Other than that, I’ll search online or have new pieces pop up on the feed. But also, half of my pieces are my mom’s hand-me-downs.”

You shared that your mother would dress you in jewelry growing up. Are there any pieces that, when you wear them now, make you feel like you’re honoring the version of yourself she saw and nurtured?

Ahmed reflects on the deep connection she feels with the jewelry her mother gave her, especially after looking at old photos. “Recently, I was looking at baby pictures of myself, and I didn’t even realize until now that she put everything on me, even anklets!” Ahmed said. “To this day, I still wear a lot of those things. I’ve had some of my earrings since I was a baby, and it’s cool to see something grow up with me. And then I’ve added to that with piercings, like ear and nose piercings, as well as chains. My mom got me another chain for my graduation as well, so I wear both my chain from childhood and my chain from that. It’s like I’m holding all these memories with me from different milestones of my life.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

Ahmed identifies some of the jewelry her mother gave her as markers of her personal growth. “Some of the pieces my mom has given me as I’ve grown older,” Ahmed said. “It’s like I’m growing into her and her jewelry as I become more responsible. The older I get, the more my mom trusts me with more of her own jewelry, and I think that’s reflective of life and the experience of growing up.”

Sree Leela Chitturi (she/her) Junior – Economics – International Studies – Grosse Pointe, MI – Indian (Telugu)

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Sree recalls her early childhood memories fondly, dressed in traditional Indian attire by her grandmother. “When I was a toddler, my grandma would dress me and my sister up in Indian clothes and jewelry, and we’d take pictures,” Chitturi said. “It was a time to feel special and connected to our culture.”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Chitturi’s jewelry pieces are deeply connected to the important women in her life. “I brought a gold necklace, bangles and a maang tikka,” Chitturi said. “One of my grandmothers bought the necklace, my other grandmother bought the bangles, and the maang tikka is a hand-me-down from my sister. All of these pieces hold deep meaning because the women in my life shaped me into who I am today.”

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Like many young people, Chitturi faced a conflict between her desire to fit in and her cultural traditions. “When I was younger, entering my teen years, I had trouble wearing Indian jewelry and clothes whenever my family wanted me to,” Chitturi said. “I think the main reason was that I grew up in a very white community and struggled to express my Indian heritage. The conflict resolved over time as I became more comfortable with expressing myself, especially after coming to a more diverse university.”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

Chitturi doesn’t actively seek out new jewelry pieces, as much of her collection is passed down or gifted by family members. “I don’t really go out of my way to buy jewelry,” Chitturi said. “A lot of it is bought by my family or from my sister.”

You mentioned that your grandmother gifted you a necklace before she passed away. How has wearing this piece impacted your understanding of generational memory and how love carries across time?

Chitturi’s relationship with her grandmother was shaped through stories and memories rather than direct interaction. “I didn’t have a strong bond with my grandmother because she passed away when I was very young,” Chitturi said. “But through stories, I’ve come to understand the kind of person she was. The necklace she gave me has helped shape a bond with her, which extends beyond generations and time.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

For Chitturi, her everyday earrings serve as a reminder to appreciate the little things. “My everyday earrings are birds with a little gem,” Chitturi said. “They’re simple, but the diamond adds a nice touch. They remind me to celebrate the little things in life and to live in the moment.”

Mehak Chohan (she/her) Sophomore – Computer Science – Economics – Woodhaven, MI (Lahore, Pakistan) – Pakistani

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Mehak’s earliest memory of wearing jewelry dates back to a wedding in Pakistan. “I was 6 years old, but there are pictures of me wearing bangles right out of the hospital,” Chohan said. “I’ve always been around jewelry, but the first distinct memory was probably at a wedding.”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

The jewelry Chohan wore for the shoot holds significant personal meaning, much of it passed down from her mother. “Everything I’m wearing is from my mom,” Chohan said. “Some of it she bought more recently, like these pieces from a bazaar in Lahore. They’re more modern and not real gold, but they still carry that element of color and detail, even though they’re inexpensive. It reflects how, in Pakistan, jewelry is such a big thing. You don’t have to blow a lot of money to dress like that.”

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Chohan recalls feeling conflicted about her South Asian jewelry in her younger years. “In middle school, since my parents are both immigrants, my mom would always wear salwar kameez and big, extravagant jewelry everywhere,” Chohan said. “I used to feel embarrassed, especially when I was younger, and I drew away from wearing South Asian jewelry. But as I got older, I started caring less about that and began wearing it more confidently.”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

Chohan’s collection includes a mix of family heirlooms and pieces she finds online. “A lot of my real jewelry comes from my dad, who is a jeweler,” Chohan said. “For instance, this ring has an emerald, and this one has a ruby, and this one has tourmaline stones. He designs the pieces, and I get to wear something he’s created.”

You noted the lack of spaces to showcase South Asian jewelry on campus. What kind of narratives do you think are missing from the conversation, and how do you hope your jewelry can help address that gap?

Chohan sees the lack of visibility for South Asian jewelry as a missed opportunity to celebrate cultural heritage. “There are a lot of South Asian events on campus, but jewelry is such an important part of the culture, especially in Pakistan, where weddings are a big deal, and jewelry plays a huge role,” Chohan said. “The pieces are often handmade, crafted with so much attention to detail, and deserve to be showcased. I think there’s a huge market for it, and I don’t think we have enough spaces on campus to display that cultural richness.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

For Chohan, the necklace she wears often symbolizes a connection to home and her accomplishments. “It’s this gold necklace with a little flower pendant,” Chohan said. “It’s not extravagant, but it reminds me of home and is from my mom. It has enough detail to make me feel proud of where I come from, and wearing it makes me feel grounded.”

Vidushi (Ihaa) Mohan (any pronouns) Sophomore – Psychology – Linguistics – Organizational Studies – Delhi, India – Indian (Bengali + Bihari)

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Ihaa’s earliest memories of jewelry stem from a time when they were too young to even remember. “I’ve always worn jewelry,” Mohan said. “I had my ears pierced at 3 months old as is custom, and I wore solid gold bracelets and anklets for probably a year. I was always being gifted little earrings, studs and balis (small hoops) by family members. I remember losing a lot of these, mostly in the ocean, and my mom getting mad at me. I think that’s what contributes to my still-present anxiety about wearing gold or diamonds or other precious stones. I only feel comfortable wearing silver and ‘junk jewelry.’” They note that the first jewelry they bought for themselves was from Accessorize and later, Claire’s.

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Mohan brought in pieces that reflect a connection to their mother and the memories they carry. “The jewelry pieces I brought in for the shoot are all things that I have acquired (stolen!) from my mom,” Mohan said. “They’re things she used to wear when she was younger that she has moved on from, doesn’t like anymore, or just didn’t have enough space to store. There are traditional lacquered bangles, lots of earrings, some black thread necklaces (I dislike metal chains for necklaces/pendants), beads, and silver. I think I view all these pieces as extensions of myself. They connect me to my mother, they express certain parts of my soul.”

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Mohan reflects on the role jewelry plays in their identity. “I think jewelry is honestly a form of drag lite for me,” Mohan said. “When I’m wearing jewelry, based on the pieces I pick out, I sort of embody or highlight parts of my gender identity momentarily. Have I felt a conflict? I guess yeah, specifically from the pressure to wear certain kinds of more precious or expensive jewelry. There’s a narrative about the richness of Indian jewelry, and that’s certainly true and embedded in our and South Asian culture as a whole. But I feel like the jewelry a woman wears kind of becomes a status symbol — an SES indicator, a public statement of family heritage, wealth and also caste.” They add that their father has always been the one to buy them expensive jewelry, and though he continues to offer more, they feel little attachment to it. “I mean, I’ll never wear this stuff. Yeah, it’s a way to store capital, but I don’t know… I went to a boarding school that had a competitive entrance exam, and he bought me these platinum diamond-encrusted earrings as a reward when I got in. I was like 11 and didn’t like shiny stuff (I still prefer my silver jewelry oxidized) and wanted colorful stuff like the bright pink star earrings made of wood or plastic that me and all my friends were wearing at the time. So yeah… I just don’t wear it. I guess that’s how I navigate it.”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

“My mom’s closet,” Mohan said.

You classified the jewelry you owned as “Delhi University college girl junk jewelry,” tying it to your mother’s college aesthetic. How do you see this shared style as an evolving connection between your personal fashion and familial roots?

“In terms of how it relates to my personal style, again, I think it’s kind of drag,” Mohan said. “Even my outfit choice for the shoot was the quintessential kurti and jeans that are popular in DU (Delhi University). I think this is a very prevalent style that’s been around for a long time, but continues to evolve today while sticking to its Indo-Western fusion roots. Participating in what is basically a very recognizable subculture is definitely one of the ways I incorporate South Asian fashion into my personal wardrobe.” For Mohan, the pieces also represent a specific era of their mother’s life, which they continue to draw from. “A lot of my clothes are items that I have received from other people. Continuing to wear these clothes and pieces of jewelry are also a way for me to not participate in overconsumption.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

Mohan does not view jewelry as a means of celebrating themselves but instead as a form of expression. “I don’t think I celebrate myself through jewelry,” Mohan said. “I’ve said this a million times, so I’m sorry if it’s getting repetitive, but I see jewelry as a sort of drag. Honestly, it’s an expression of my queer identity too, to an extent. I feel like South Asian queer people often have this urge to turn to Western cultural influences when it comes to exploring their queerness, and I’ve done that too at times. I’m not necessarily against it on an individual level, I think everybody has a right to do what’s most comfortable to them, and I would never shade somebody for it. But it’s certainly indicative of a larger social pattern.” They acknowledge the influence of the internet and Western culture on queer South Asians but stress the importance of multicultural queer expression. “Among the diaspora, people don’t see themselves reconciling queer identity sometimes with their culture because their exposure to their culture is mostly through the lens of their family. If the family is conservative, it can make them feel like they need to choose between the two. You don’t need to choose between the two.”

Anjalee Raval (she/her) Junior – Biology, Health, & Society – Spanish – Woodhaven, MI – Indian (Gujarati)

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Anjalee’s earliest memory of wearing jewelry is tied to her mother’s influence. “I got my ears pierced as a baby, so I’ve always, always had earrings,” Raval said. “My mom wouldn’t let me leave the house if I didn’t have some kind of matching earring set, or sometimes we’d match jewelry where I’d wear a smaller version of whatever she was wearing. So honestly, my entire life, I’ve been surrounded by jewelry.”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Raval’s collection for the shoot is deeply rooted in her family’s treasures. “All of them are from my mom,” Raval said. “They’re all from her collection. She opened up a safe and whipped out a huge array of jewelry she hadn’t worn in a while. I brought in a lot of nose rings and earrings, as well as a couple of matching sets. The only new thing is one of those pearl things that attach because my mom likes to stay with the trends, but it’s all hers. It’s all really old, and some of it is even from my grandma.”

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Raval recalls her high school experience, where she initially felt uncomfortable wearing traditional jewelry. “When I was younger, I would wear a bindi and little jhumkas to school, but then kids at school would be like, ‘What is that? What are you doing? That’s weird,’” Raval said. “For a while, I stopped wearing it and just wore hoops or whatever I found at Target. But then, I realized that life’s too short not to wear stuff from my culture. And I have a limited amount of time to wear all these pieces because there’s so much jewelry, so I could get away with wearing something new every day. A lot of people can’t say that. I think I should make the most of it.” She came to this realization during her high school years, embracing her cultural identity through her jewelry.

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

While Raval’s first stop is her mom, she also looks to family friends for advice and finds inspiration in their guidance. “My mom’s best friend, Jigu, is a fashion icon,” Raval said. “She always knows what’s going to look good with what. Honestly, I FaceTime her a lot when I have Indian events to attend because my mom will give me her opinion, but I always like to get a second opinion. And I usually end up siding with Jigu.”

You (beautifully) described jewelry as a “proud, jingling, gilded reflection” of your identity. How has wearing pieces passed down from your mother, aunts, and grandmother helped you feel connected to them across generations?

Raval finds that jewelry helps bridge the gap of distance and loss between her and her family. “Two things play into that a lot—distance and loss,” Raval said. “A lot of my family is in India, and my family here is very small. Also, many of my grandmothers and aunts have passed away, so I never really got the chance to connect with them on a physical, tangible level. It’s mostly hearsay. But you feel close to them because they’re your family, and that’s one thing you’re sure of. Wearing their jewelry and hearing stories from my mom, like, ‘Oh, we used to share this piece,’ or ‘I wore this to this event, and your aunt wore it to that,’ makes me feel connected to them in a deeper way. It’s like I’m making it mine, but it has belonged to so many people I care about, which is what makes it so special.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

For Raval, wearing her nose ring is an act of self-celebration, especially as someone who once felt insecure about her appearance. “Yeah, definitely the nose rings,” Raval said. “They’re very in-your-face, and in South Asian culture, they’re a marker of identity. As someone who grew up insecure about having a very Indian nose, wearing the nose ring brings attention to it in such a special way. I feel proud of it. It means a lot to me to wear that kind of jewelry and be confident in it.”

Sneha Sharma (she/her) Fulbright FLTA – Hindi – Assam, India – Indian (Rajasthani)

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Sneha’s earliest memory of jewelry centers on her mother’s mangalsutra, which she would wear whenever her mother wasn’t around. “My mom used to always wear her mangalsutra and keep it on the table,” Sharma said. “Whenever she’d go to the market or the bathroom, I would wear it. I don’t know what my obsession was with it. I saw a lot of daily soaps with my cousins and grandma, so I’d just wear that mangalsutra. I thought, okay, one day I’m also going to get married.” She laughs at herself now, reflecting on how foolish she felt later on. “That was my first memory—wearing my mother’s jewelry.”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Sharma explains that most of her jewelry is gifted by her family, particularly her mother and sister. “I’ve been all over India, but I never end up buying jewelry,” Sharma said. “It’s always my mother and sister who buy it. Except for jhumkas, I’ve never bought anything for myself.” She brought in a silver piece from a friend in Gujarat and shared a few more meaningful pieces. “I have these little pearl jhumkas that my grandma gave to my mother in the ‘80s, who then gave them to me. They’re not gold but alloy, so they didn’t tarnish over time. I love nature and words. My mother collects jewelry with animal motifs, like elephants or birds. I’ve got a few pieces with peacock motifs—it’s such a majestic bird.”

During our conversation, I couldn’t help but notice a stunning pair of silver hoop peacock earrings with magenta gems that caught my eye. When I commented on how beautiful they were, Sharma kindly gifted them to me. They now hold an extra layer of sentimental value, as they remind me of our conversation and her generosity.

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Sharma acknowledges the traditional expectations in her Rajasthani family, especially when attending weddings or parties. “If you go to a wedding or party, you have to wear proper jewelry,” Sharma said. “I don’t feel as much of a burden as some of my cousins since I’m from the city, where I could experiment with my style more. I could skip some pieces, mix and match and do all sorts of things. But I’ve also seen married people feel more restricted by what jewelry they wear.” She enjoys experimenting with styles, even combining silver with gold. “I just love to experiment!”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

Sharma’s jewelry collection is mainly from her mother’s treasures. “I don’t go out shopping for jewelry but would always go to my mother,” Sharma said. “If you ever need new pearls or any sort of jewelry, she’d just put the idea in her head and get it for you.”

You mentioned bringing cherished jewelry from India to the U.S. How has your jewelry helped you connect with other people and cultures in Ann Arbor?

Sharma finds that her jewelry has become a bridge for cultural exchange. “I stay at the International House, and there are people from all over,” Sharma said. “We get to share our cultures. The other day, we were talking about fabrics and how India is so colorful. When we say India, the first thing that pops into anyone’s head is colors. I did a culture table where others got to see everything. Usually, you could show pictures, but I brought the jewelry in person. People got to see what it looks like, feel it, even listen to the jingles of anklets. I also brought ghungroos with me, and they got to feel them. Someone told me they’d love to visit India now, which they never thought they would. That’s a good thing, now that everything is tangible and in your grasp. It made things easier as a cultural ambassador.” She jokes, “I also had one suitcase just full of all this!”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

Sharma reflects on a simple gold ring that holds deep personal significance. “In South Asian families, gold has a special significance,” Sharma said. “This piece was my mother’s. Growing up, I was always very conscious about my weight. Whenever we’d go to get rings, I’d worry the employees would have to cut and adjust the design. This ring is a simple band that my mother used to wear, but now it fits me. It helped me realize that my weight was okay. You’ll gain and lose weight, but things will be okay. Some pieces of jewelry will fit you, and others won’t. My mother always says, ‘If you’re skinny, your bangles will be heavier.’”

Sanjana “Sanju” Sunilkumar (she/her) Sophomore – Public Policy – Law, Justice, & Social Change – Troy, MI – Indian (Malayali)

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Sanju’s earliest memory of wearing jewelry is closely tied to her relationship with her grandmother. She recalls how her grandmother would often place jhumkas on her ears before family gatherings, telling stories about each piece—whether it was a gift, blessing or symbol of love. Sunilkumar remembers fidgeting with the gold jhumkas, noticing their weight and how they shimmered in the light. Reflecting on this memory, she shares, “I feel like that was the first time I understood that jewelry wasn’t just an accessory—it was a connection to something greater, something that has personal significance and history. It’s intertwined with different legacies and personal relationships throughout my life, especially with my ancestors.”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Today, Sunilkumar brought a delicate marquise diamond ring with red ruby stones and a gold band. “It was given to me by my mom before I left for college,” Sunilkumar said. “It symbolizes love, strength, passion and vitality. It’s a reminder of the devotion and resilience of the women in my family — my grandma, mom and older sister — who have all greatly shaped the person I am today.” She also brought jhumkas gifted by her grandmother and a tikka gifted by her aunt, along with a necklace, bangles, and other rings passed down through generations. “Each piece carries a story from one woman to the next.”

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Sunilkumar acknowledges that there has been a conflict between her love for traditional jewelry and how she might be perceived outside of cultural settings. “Growing up, I really loved traditional jewelry, but sometimes, I hesitated to wear it outside of cultural events because of how I might be perceived in school,” Sunilkumar said. “Western minimalism was often seen as more modern and elegant, while bolder pieces were exoticized.” She continues, “I felt this inner battle between embracing my culture and not wanting to stand out too much. Over time, I realized that the discomfort I felt wasn’t about the jewelry itself but about societal pressures to conform. Now, I wear what I love without worrying about whether it fits into Western aesthetics or not.”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

Sunilkumar’s love for jewelry is strongly rooted in her family’s legacy. “I love collecting pieces from my own family, especially those that have been passed down through generations or carry their own legacies,” Sunilkumar said. She also seeks out jewelry from small, South Asian-owned businesses that modernize traditional styles while keeping cultural roots prevalent. “Whether it’s online stores run by South Asian artisans or jewelry shops in Kerala, where my family is from, I believe every piece carries its own story, and I make sure whatever I wear has some sort of meaning for me.”

You wrote about navigating identity as a person of color. Is there a jewelry piece that feels like an anchor for you — something that strengthens your connection to your roots when you’re in spaces that feel disconnected from them?

Sunilkumar’s bangles have been with her since childhood, gradually sized up as she grew. “It’s evolved with me, reminding me that growth is constant, that I’m forever changing, but still rooted in the strength and heritage passed down to me,” Sunilkumar said. The soft clinking of the bangles on her wrist holds a deeper significance. “It feels like an unspoken connection to all the women in my family. I carry their perseverance with me, and that’s why I wanted to be part of this project. South Asian jewelry is more than just ornamentation — it holds all the history, strength and stories of generations before us.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

Sunilkumar’s tikka holds personal cultural meaning for her. “It sits at the center of my forehead, and I wear it on special occasions when I want to feel adorned, celebrated and fully connected to my culture,” Sunilkumar said. “It draws attention to the place where we carry a lot of our thoughts, dreams, and sense of self. When I wear this piece, I feel empowered, grounded, and proud of who I am, honoring both the past and the future that I’m shaping.”

Asmita Tuladhar (she/her) Senior – Biopsychology, Cognition, & Neuroscience – Canton, MI – Nepali (Newar)

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Asmita recalls her earliest memories of wearing jewelry from when she was five years old, particularly when she would wear anklets during dance performances. “I used to wear a lot of anklets when I went dancing,” Tuladhar said. “There weren’t many Nepali dance classes, but I was put in bharatanatyam, which was a version that was still reminiscent of home. I remember wearing anklets and tikkas from a young age and feeling so beautifully elegant whenever I danced or went to a Nepali family party. I would wear the anklets, along with a lot of tikkas.”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Tuladhar’s collection includes several meaningful pieces. “First is the ring, which is my grandmother’s ring,” Tuladhar said. “She passed away 3-4 years ago but gave a ring to both me and my sister before she passed away. It’s a way to keep my family close, and I don’t really know what the elements in it exactly are, but I know it’s gold and has diamonds and a gem in the middle.” She also brought a headpiece, which, though not passed down, holds cultural significance. “It’s a headpiece that you would wear at your wedding or for fancy occasions. It has a moon and a sun, which is reminiscent of the flag of Nepal.” Her earrings and headpiece are unique to Newar culture, the indigenous group of people in the Kathmandu valley of Nepal, and she wears silver anklets that create a pleasant sound when she moves.

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

Tuladhar shares that it wasn’t until college that she started to find a balance between expressing her personal style and staying connected to her cultural roots. “Growing up, I never really knew how to express my fashion sense until I came to college, and I realized there’s a way to express a personal culture with my jewelry,” Tuladhar said. “I think it’s really nice to be able to wear these earrings, for example, on a more casual outfit, just to showcase a part of my background and wear something different from just a regular pair of golden hoops.” She reflects on the challenge of balancing standing out and staying true to her heritage. “I think it’s just a little bit difficult to not want to stand out but also to want to wear the jewelry that makes me who I am and represents the background that I’m from. I’m in a brown friend group, so I usually tend to be lumped in as Indian or something else. So, I like wearing these pieces of jewelry to showcase a more unique part of my ethnicity and background.”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

Tuladhar often turns to her family’s collection, with a special place in her heart for jewelry passed down through generations. I sometimes go on Etsy if I’m looking for newer pieces of jewelry, but the more authentic background is from my family—my grandpa, my grandma, my mom,” Tuladhar said. “Hopefully, I’ll be able to pass these down to my kids.”

You spoke about the limited representation of your Newar/Nepali American culture and how creating POSA (Portrait of South Asia) became a way to share those stories visually. Are there specific pieces of jewelry that you feel carry untold narratives, and how might they expand people’s understanding of South Asian culture?

Tuladhar emphasizes that the meaning behind jewelry lies in the personal stories it carries. “I don’t think there’s any specific jewelry that you could say speaks upon an untold aspect of a South Asian narrative but rather the stories people bring with it,” Tuladhar said. “So anything can be monumental or carry a lot of memories, depending on what the person has to say about it.” For her, the significance of jewelry is tied to the memories and family connections that each piece holds. “For me, it’s this ring. For other people, it might be some jhumkas or an anklet, but it’s about the memories that they associate with them, their families, and anything else that they hold close to their hearts. I think it’s really important to be able to share these stories in a way that people can see and enjoy.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

The earrings that Tuladhar brought today are a symbol of her confidence and unique personal style. “Any piece of jewelry that makes me feel very confident and pretty, so for me, it’s these earrings because they showcase something similar to golden hoops, but they’re unique enough to be subtly different,” Tuladhar said. “I feel that I am accomplishing my responsibility to represent my Nepali, Newar identity in a way that is easily digestible to everyone. People begin by complimenting my earrings because of the unique hoops, which then opens up the conversation to my first expression of a background that they may have otherwise not known of. These earrings serve as a door to conversation and connection, and that’s something I’ve personally enjoyed and celebrated.”

Avanthi “Vani” Wijetunga (she/her) Junior – Public Health – Grand Forks, ND – Sri Lankan

What is your earliest memory of wearing jewelry?

Vani doesn’t have a specific memory of first wearing jewelry, as it’s been part of her life for as long as she can remember. “I’ve had my ears pierced since I was three months old, so jewelry has just always been a part of every memory I’ve had,” Wijetunga said. “I’ve always worn at least a set of earrings, so it’s just always been a part of me.”

What jewelry piece(s) have you brought in today? What meaning does it hold for you, and where did you get it from?

Wijetunga brought a necklace with a special pendant, which holds deep familial significance. “The pendant is from my mom’s parents, and the chain is from my dad’s parents,” Wijetunga said. “It brings both of my grandparents together, and I got to wear it starting in my freshman year of college. I haven’t taken it off since, and it means a lot because it’s family.”

Have you ever felt a conflict between your personal style and the expectations of family, society, etc. when it comes to jewelry? How did you navigate it?

For Wijetunga, her jewelry choices have always been simple and aligned with family traditions, so she didn’t feel much conflict. “All the jewelry I wear is simple enough that whatever my mom had is what I would always wear,” Wijetunga said. “I grew up wearing my grandma’s studs or my mom’s little flower earrings. So it never really bothered me because I was so used to always having something simple on that I never had to think about how I would look in comparison to someone else.”

Where do you go to or search to find pieces to add to your jewelry collection?

For Wijetunga, the best place to find jewelry is her mom’s closet. “We’ve got a lot of jewelry from different traditions and points in our lives, from when I was born or when my siblings were born,” Wijetunga said. “It’s a big thing in Sri Lankan culture that when you start menstruating, you get a bunch of jewelry from all sorts of families, even people you don’t know. So I have a bunch of pieces from that, and it’s all back home. But if I ever wanted to switch things out, I just go straight to my mom.”

You mentioned receiving a necklace with a dharma chakra pendant from your grandparents. How has this piece influenced not only your spirituality but also your sense of belonging or personal growth?

Wijetunga reflects on how the dharma chakra pendant became especially meaningful after she moved away from her family. “I started wearing this when I started school here, and it was my first time being super far away from my family and my grandparents,” Wijetunga said. “My grandma lives back home with me, and I’ve always had a grandparent in my day-to-day life for as long as I can remember. They’ll usually come and visit for extended periods of time, or I’ll go see them. So it was definitely different moving away from them.” The pendant became a way to stay connected to her roots and her spirituality. “They are getting older, so you don’t always feel the cultural connection, and sometimes it’s hard to communicate with people who don’t speak fluent English or sometimes I’ll speak broken Sinhala – there’s always a language barrier. But I feel like this brings all sides of my family together in a way that they’re always with me. Also, my family is Buddhist, and this pendant is a symbol of Buddhism, specifically representing the moral teachings of the Buddha. I grew up following those teachings, like the Noble Eightfold Path and the Four Noble Truths. So, this piece reminds me of the values that my grandparents have instilled in me.”

Is there a piece of jewelry that reminds you to celebrate yourself or your accomplishments, and how do you feel when you wear it?

The pendant is not only a symbol of family but also a reminder of Wijetunga’s personal growth during her time in college. “It has to be this pendant,” Wijetunga said. “I’ve been wearing it throughout college, and that’s been the time when I’ve had the most personal growth.”

Kaira Bhutada/MiC

Conclusion

I encourage you to scroll through these pictures once more. Watch the light dance on the metal, laid across hair and clasped around necks and fingers. 

For so many South Asian people, our jewelry has been exoticized. It’s been viewed as a sort of costume to be adorned at Big Fat Indian Weddings when, in truth, it’s more than a thing to be gawked at. Every ring, necklace, anklet and bangle is a crucial, carefully placed aspect of a person’s identity. Mothers have a story for every earring in every little felt knapsack in their bedroom drawers. 

The jewelry we wear is our connection to our matriarchs. Dr. Roger Aden famously conducted a study about objects that hold narrative memory. He found that an object can create a sort of memory bridge that allows the owner to access memories that they deem “treasured”, and when we press our gilded necklaces and earstuds between our fingers, what he’s saying makes a whole lot of sense. Does the ancestry associated with a piece of jewelry make it heavier? Or do our ancestors help lift the gold, keeping it from weighing into our collarbones and radiocarpal joints? 

The historical significance of jewelry in South Asia can’t be understated. There’s this rumor — I’m not sure where it came from — that Indian housewives own 11% of the world’s gold. For so long, women in South Asia could generally not inherit property or assets. All they had was the gold they would amass throughout their lives, especially on days like their weddings. When our mothers pass their jewelry onto us, is it out of fear? Owning gold equated to potential financial freedom back then, just in case. Thus, the women of South Asia have amassed gold, jewels, and protection from their ancestors in the form of necklaces, bangles, and anklets.

Jewelry has always been a visual indicator of much more than beauty. But therein lies the supposed problem with jewelry: you can see it. You can see the jhumkas pull at my earlobe, the jade leaf in its gold inlet that sits on my suprasternal notch, and the gold bangles pressed across my greenish veins. It’s anatomical, almost. So many of these stories indicate a history of hesitancy. Is our jewelry too much? Too big? 

I think it’s moving that not a single one of these interviews ends with hesitancy. No, they say — I wear the jewelry anyways. When American beauty standards demand minimalism, we carefully arrange layers of jewelry that speak to who we are today. When we don’t conform to American beauty standards, we’ve grown. The pride we have in our jewelry is the pride we have in our culture, heritage, and being. The heirlooms we receive aren’t just beautiful — they’re pure, ancient power. 

Because gold is never just gold, heirlooms are never just heirlooms, and jewelry…

…well, it’s never just jewelry.

Amrita Kondur

Author’s Notes

Gallery

MiC Photographer Kaira Bhutada can be reached at kbhutada@umich.edu.

MiC Assistant Editor Arya Kamat can be reached at agkamat@umich.edu.

MiC Columnist Amrita Kondur can be reached at akondur@umich.edu.

MiC Videographer Adithya Sastry can be reached at eddysas@umich.edu.

MiC Graphic Artist Anjalee Raval can be reached at anjalee@umich.edu.

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